Anyone who has done Tel Aviv correctly has been to a teensy tiny shop that specializes in the most beautiful sodas on the planet. It inspired me to make my own version, which has fizzy water, marzipan syrup and a tangy shrub garnished with all sorts of herbs and fruits. Think a sweet, floral, very distant cousin to those over-the-top brunch Bloody Marys—it’s basically a fruit salad in a glass, and the perfect bright and zingy way to start the day.
For the shrub: Remove the zest from the grapefruit with a vegetable peeler. Chop the peel and combine in a bowl with the granulated sugar. Massage with your hands for a minute or so until very fragrant and the sugar looks a little oily. Juice the grapefruit. Add water, if needed, to make 1 cup.
Combine the juice, peel and sugar, raspberries, pink peppercorns and peaches in a small saucepan. Bring to a simmer and cook until the peaches begin to slump and the raspberries fall apart, 4 to 5 minutes. Remove from the heat, add the basil sprigs and pour over the vinegar. Let cool to room temperature. Transfer to a nonreactive container, seal and refrigerate for 2 days. (Or longer if you have time.)
After 2 days, strain and discard the solids.
For the almond syrup: Blend the almonds in a food processor, scraping the sides and bottom occasionally, until creamy and spreadable, about 10 minutes. Add the confectioners' sugar, extract and salt and continue to process until very creamy, scraping down the sides and bottom as needed, about 5 minutes. With the processor running, drizzle in 1 cup water and continue to process to make a thick, very smooth and creamy syrup, about 2 minutes.
To assemble the gazoz: In a tall glass, add 2 ounces of shrub (or more or less depending on your taste). For a creamy drink, add 2 to 3 tablespoons of the almond syrup (or omit for a clear drink). Add ice cubes and garnishes. Fill the glass with about 6 ounces chilled seltzer. Add herbs and flowers and serve. Leftover shrub and almond syrup will both keep in airtight containers in the refrigerator for a week. (The almond syrup may thicken up a bit; if so, stir in a tablespoon or so of water.)
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